Part 3: Dnepropetrovsk - Vyshgorod
Morning "pleased" us with a complete calm, since we stocked up on gasoline well. In the morning before departure, Andrey and Valera:
A little higher than the sailboat club is a pedestrian bridge to the island with a passage height of ~11 m. For us, it’s enough :) To our right is Komsomolsky Island
And on the left is the embankment of Dnepropetrovsk:
We go out to the fairway and pass under the Dnepropetrovsk city bridge. Bridge height ~15 m.
Behind him is the Dnepropetrovsk bunk.
This is where we start to get nervous. Drawbridge, or rather lifting. One of its span rises like an elevator. We saw a similar construction in the Belgorod-Dnestrovsky estuary, only then from a great distance. Another such building is waiting for us in Kremenchug. Previously, the bridge was raised quite often, now the movement of large ships is rare here, the rise can be expected up to several days. No one will raise it for us, but you can find out about the upcoming next rise on the 16th sea channel: call sign "TOWER", or by calling 053-676-21-49, 067-901-74-11. Chapter pointersieves that the guaranteed height of the passage is 7.5 m. We have 8.5 m from the water to the top. From the water, the white strip is about 40 cm, the width of the strip itself is about 40 cm more. There is a chance to squeeze through. Laying down a mast means losing a few hours, well, I really don’t want to. Calm, the fairway is empty. We train. The current is opposite, so it is possible to “hang” relative to the shore at the smallest speed. We roll the boat on one side and slowly crawl under the bridge. Between the bulls there are many whirlpools, we are beginning to twist and swing. In the middle of the bridge, I notice that a loop is hanging from the "body" of the canvas.fittings. We definitely won’t pass it, but I notice it too late, the discharged gas no longer saves. At the last moment, another whirlpool tilts us more than our capabilities. Intuitively I add gas. When the mast returns to its original position, the loop is already behind. Got a shot of adrenaline. A little further, the bridge again - Novokaidaksky. Here the passage is ~16 m. It does not cause problems for us.
In this section, we were surprised by the unexpectedly strong current and the abundance of floating islands and other large objects. We walked well during the day, but at night running into such a log or an island is not enough :(
Closer to Dneprodzerzhinsk, a large number of strange, somehow mutilated, diseased trees on the left bank catches the eye. I think that the reason is the disgrace that is happening on the right.
Here there is only one desire - to quickly slip through this dead place :( In Dneprodzerzhinsk, another bridge is waiting for us, but this one is high - more than 16 m.
By 14 o'clock we approach the Dneprodzerzhinsk lock. HPP panorama
Dispatcher phone +38-056-955-19-43. The cost of locking is 190 UAH. (~$25). The freshly painted structures of the gateway are striking. It turns out that this was done in preparation for Euro 2012. The management of the locks expected that foreign guests would go en masse to the championship on their sailboats! Fresh legend ... Who can break through? After all, the procedure for passing sailboats through the state border has not changed :( And if someone breaks through, what will they do next? We are local guys, not spoiled, we can spend the night in sports sailboat clubs or just in the reeds. And what will the Turks or Greeks doAre you used to walking from one comfortable marina to another? After all, throughout the entire distance from Ochakov to Kyiv, we managed to see only one parking lot more or less corresponding to the phrase "sailboat marina" in the Mediterranean sense of this term :( Then, on the way back, we were told that two weeks before the championship, through the Dnieper Only four sailing sailboats passed through the locks, including the Chunga-Changa, all under the Ukrainian flag, so the owners of the locks did not manage to make money on the "bourgeois" ;) Inside the camera:
At 15-00 we leave the lock on the upper pool. Complete calm. The Dneprodzerzhinsk reservoir turned out to be very picturesque. After the nightmarish urban spectacle that we observed below here, it is as if you find yourself in another world (the exception is the mining and processing plant in Komsomolsk). In general, from Kherson to Dneprodzerzhinsk, the banks of the Dnieper are densely populated. Between cities, villages, summer cottages, it is possible to find small free sections of the coast, but even there traces of human activity are visible. Trees are also mostly just at the very edge of the water.- further steppe. There are very few settlements here. But there are a lot of obelisks on mass graves :( ...
The width of the reservoir is small, from the fairway both banks are perfectly visible and pleasing to the eye. Along the banks are gently sloping hills overgrown with dense forest. The abundance of islands, the mouth of the Vorskla River is especially picturesque. It’s a pity, we passed there already at dusk, it was impossible to shoot. Sunset at the Dneprodzerzhinsk reservoir.
The calm weather did not bode well for us, so we decided not to stop for the night, but to move on, catching up with the schedule. At 00-45 we passed the turning buoy No. 47. And then the fairway disappeared :( It’s clear that since the buoy is turning, it means you need to turn somewhere, but where? We didn’t have normal maps. According to the conventional scheme, it turned out that the turn was to the left. "You can't see anything behind them. It's an unpleasant feeling to go into the darkness without realizing what's in front of you. When the cherished red light finally flashed between the reeds, sighuli with relief. The placement of navigation signs in this place is very unfortunate. Perhaps, from the bridge of a large ship, everything is visible above the reeds, but for the "kids" - a problem. The rest of the night passed without incident. Before dawn on the way to Kremenchug
At half past five we approached the Kremenchug bridge. This is the brother of the Dnepropetrovsk bunk. Here the height of the passage is 8 m. We pass almost boldly;) . It is difficult to assess visually from below, but the margin was 15-20 cm.
According to unconfirmed reports, there is a sailboat marina above Kremenchug just before the lock on the left bank. I don't know, we didn't get to see her. Just above the bridge was a gas station on the water. Judging by the inscription, it does not work all the time. You need to call and order fuel in advance. Maybe I misunderstood something. Who is there more often - please correct. By eight in the morning we approach the lock chamber. Dispatcher phone +38-052-36-20-722. The cost of locking is 190 UAH. (~$25). Kremenchug lock outside and inside:
At half-past nine we go out to the upper pool. The delay from the plan was reduced to 2 hours. Almost caught up. Here on the right bank is the Svetlovodsk Yacht Club. An overnight stay and acquaintance with local sailboatsmen were planned here. Now we canceled the entry, passed by and broke out into the vastness of the largest of the Dnieper reservoirs. In the distance we saw several sailboats, apparently returning from the race that took place the day before in Cherkassy.
I hope that colleague YuraIl will tell us in detail about the navigational features of the Kremenchug reservoir, places of possible shelters and other interesting things. This is his native pond. I can’t write almost anything about local beauties either, since the right bank was poorly visible, and the left one was not visible at all. More or less considered only the Moscow Hill
We heard a lot about the insidiousness of the Kremenchug reservoir and experienced a certain fear of it, but it treated us very kindly. Throughout the day, the wind periodically intensified, then subsided, but remained fair. We sailed almost on flat water, sometimes helping with a motor. Here an unpleasant episode happened, which I already mentioned in "Sea Life". Taking advantage of the excellent weather, we decided to "eat hot". Prepared soup from dried concentrates. A few hours later, I felt a slight malaise with nausea and dizziness.environment. The first thought - seasick. But why would all of a sudden in such and such weather? I told Yura about this, and he also says that he suffers from heartburn. Then they already realized that it was poisoning. But we were not too upset, because by the evening we would be in Cherkassy, and May 28 is a special date for Cherkassy - the birthday of YuraIl colleague :) So, let's drink vodka, disinfect, and all the ailment will pass. And here's what's interesting and damn nice - a person has a birthday, he could sit at home, drink vodka with his family and friends. But no! He knows that two weirdos will be onAssolka passes by and sits sober in the sailboat club, waiting for our arrival ... Just at sunset, we approach Cherkassy.
The Cherkasy Yacht Club hosted a warm welcome to the guests. Excursion around the territory, acquaintance with the local fleet. A detailed examination of the triton "Odyssey" and the assolka "Fairy", and then, of course, there was a festive feast. Everything would be fine, but the holiday was overshadowed by the state of my health. My first mate Yura turned out to be much stronger, a couple of glasses of vodka - and he recovered. I, on the other hand, "fell and died." In short, he ruined the holiday. I really hope next time it will be different :)
Morning May 29th. Cherkasy Yacht Club. The first day when we can go on schedule, but my physical condition does not allow me to keep watch (I remind you that the day before I got food poisoning). Beyond Cherkassy the river is rather narrow, with a strong counter current, and besides, it is calm in the morning. So the transition is planned only under the motor. After consulting, we decided to try to reach Kanev. Yura will be the one to steer. If I feel better before Kanev, thank God, if not, I will have to interrupt the trip and be hospitalized. I have nothing to say about this transitionI was unable to crawl out of the cabin), I can only show photos and videos taken by Yura. From this photo you can estimate the strength of the current:
This is how the banks look in the area where the Dnieper flows into the Kremenchug reservoir:
And so on the way to Kanev:
In the fight against the poison, my body still won :), and by noon my temperature began to subside. So on the way to Kanev I crawled out into the cockpit. It became clear that there was no need to interrupt the journey. Why is Kanev famous and interesting? The fact that there is the grave of Taras Grigoryevich Shevchenko. According to the poet's will, the burial is located on the top of the hill.
If I die, then bury Me at the grave of the middle of the wide steppe On the Ukraine dear, Shchoblani broad-fielded, I Dnipro, and steep Buli are visible. Bulo chuti, Yak roaring roaring.
From there, a very beautiful view probably opens up from above, but the monument is poorly visible from the water. I have never been here before, although I have long dreamed of visiting here. We entered the schedule, we had free time, the weather was good, but I was not yet able to climb the mountain, and Yura had already been there. Therefore, without stopping, we passed by this historical place.
At the beginning of the third, we moored at the city pier Kanev. The location is convenient because there are close to shops, market, gas station. Some problem was created by local boys. Near the low pier there was a pleasure boat, we had to moor on the edge where there is a second tier. So, the boys found fun, climbing to the second tier and taking advantage of the fact that they were not visible from the deck of the sailboat, throwing stones and empty beer cans at the sailboat. Most of their "gifts" flew over the deck and fell into the water, but sometimes hit the mastor rigging and dropped onto the deck. Probably, this is a very fun activity, but for some reason it caused only one desire in me - to kick the ears of hooligans. But I couldn’t chase them, and Yura went to the store to buy fat-free kefir for me, since I hadn’t eaten anything for almost a day. And so the boys managed to amuse themselves plenty. Contacted the gateway manager. Since the time when YuraIl passed here, nothing has changed. Phone +380 4736 329 47, payment 190 UAH. (~$25).
We left the lock at the beginning of the fifth and an hour later came to a very interesting place. 49° 48.880" N ; 31° 27.425" E At the foot of the hill, beautiful sandy beach. We decided to make a stop here for a "snack" and swimming. What was our surprise when the boat buried its nose on the shore, and the echo sounder, the sensor of which was installed in the afterpeak, showed a depth of 2.2 m!
By this time, my temperature had finally subsided, and my state of health had returned to normal. A merrily decorated boat passed along the fairway,
and a rainbow appeared over the left bank
Life has improved! :) With a light south-west breeze, we reached the Pereyaslavskaya gully before sunset, but we changed our minds about going into it for the night (for such a wind it is just open), and stopped in a small creek just after the turn: 49 ° 59.308 "N; 31° 24.675" E The place is just fabulous! In general, in my opinion, the Kanev reservoir is the most picturesque of the entire Dnieper cascade.
In the morning I woke up before sunrise, apparently it had an effect that I had been lying all day the day before. Yura decided not to wake up - all the same, our previously tight watch schedule was violated - let him sleep off for yesterday. Quietly set the sails, weighed anchor and set off. The sky is clear, light southeast (backstay) - beauty! Visibility is excellent, there is a huge open water area around, I can clearly see where I need to go, but after an hour of travel the fairway suddenly turns and writes out a huge arc. If you go in a straight line, you can cut at least 2.5-3 miles. Well, how not to succumbmy temptation? YuraIl said above that I follow the fairway with discipline - that's not always;) Turned on the echo sounder and went straight. Depth all the way ranged from 4 to 7 meters. Two hours later I was already approaching Balyko-Shchuchinka, by this moment the morning wind had almost died down. A couple of hundred meters remained before entering the fairway, when the echo sounder squealed treacherously, reporting a depth of less than 2 meters. The boat drove into dense thickets and stopped. Went out to the tank and looked around. Along the fairway stretches a strip of grass about a hundred meters wide, and several kilometers long.meters - how much the eye sees. That is why the fairway was writing out such a zigzag. The curiosity is that we did not run aground. The depth here (footstock) is 1.5-1.7 meters. It is quite enough for us to pass even with the centerboard down (if the wind were stronger, we would drag it), but it is too deep to jump overboard and push the boat with our hands. I tried to start the engine - it was useless, I immediately wound it on the screw and stalled. Yura woke up from the noise. Together, with the help of oars, a pole and some expressions, we pushed the boat through the grass. On the other side there is an almost steep slope up to 10-12meters. We saved about an hour by cutting the corner, then we lost twenty minutes, making our way through the thickets. In the net balance: + forty minutes :)
Balyko-Shuchinka is known as a place of military battles during the crossing of the Dnieper. But the memorial located here is almost invisible from the water. Only the central sculpture rises above the trees
Somewhere in the Rzhishchev area there should be another attraction - a flooded church. But for some reason we didn't see it. Now I looked at the photo from YuryIl, thanks. Another would be the coordinates, well, so that next time they don’t slip past;)
View just above Rzhishchev:
Business for dinner. There are beautiful places around. It would be nice to have fresh ears for lunch. We stopped in a very picturesque place, abandoned fishing rods. Alas, not a single bite for an hour. Had to have lunch than usual :(
Heat, calm. We go under the motor along the fairway under the right bank. Suddenly I notice that a small object is moving across from the shore to cross us. The speeds and trajectories are such that we must collide. Come closer - I can't believe my eyes! A deer swims along the river (maybe it's a small roe deer). What prompted him to take such a desperate step? After all, the width of the reservoir here is 2.5-3 km. Could he swim that far? And if he swam? The entire left bank, within sight, is a solid concrete dam, which he would hardly have been able to get to. When distyanie was reduced to ten meters, "swimmer" abruptly turned around in the opposite direction. If we were hunters, he would not be lucky, otherwise, I think that we saved his life :)
Around the corner appeared the village of Halepye. On the shore, something similar to boathouses. It turns out that there is a gas station on the water: 50 ° 07.468 "N; 30 ° 49.570" E Further on, you can see the Trypilska State District Power Plant and the modern city of Ukrainka.
Trypillya is the site of excavations of the most ancient settlement of the 6th-3rd millennium BC. e. Trypillia culture existed during the Copper-Stone Age. Here is an interesting local history museum, which I really wanted to visit. In addition, there are two large sailboat clubs. Therefore, here we had a planned stay with an overnight stay, excursions, acquaintance with local sailboatsmen. Previously, before the start of the voyage, I tried to coordinate this parking lot by e-mail. Unfortunately, I did not receive an answer from any of the other sailboat clubs. From friends I learned the phonewe are watchmen. We approach the entrance to the sailboat clubs at two o'clock in the afternoon. The approach is not marked in any way, grass is overgrown on all sides. The weather is calm, at low speed under the engine on the echo sounder we grope for a rather narrow passage. In "Stugna" we see not a big berth, where all the places are occupied, but in NAU we see nothing, since the entrance to the bay is blocked by a cable. Cheerful hospitality, it's good that they came during daylight hours, otherwise you can stay without a boat :( We spin near the entrance. I dial the phone of the watchman "Stugna" - they don't pick up the phone, in NAU - the same thinge. At that time, people walked around the territories of both clubs, some came closer to look at strangers, but no one waved his hand in a friendly manner, did not invite or show where and how to approach. Scrolled at the entrance for half an hour. This time there is time, there is weather, there is health… Alas, no guests are expected here. :( What to do? We turn around and head for Kyiv.
Not even an hour had passed since we left Ukrainka, a black cloud appeared on the horizon from Kyiv, which very quickly went to meet us. The great writer said that not every bird will fly to the middle of the Dnieper. I don’t know if this is true if you take it from edge to edge, i.e. including coastal floodplains, but the central channel, along which the fairway passes, is three hundred meters wide at most. There is nowhere to hide, driftwood sticks out everywhere along the edge of the fairway, there is heavy traffic on the fairway. In such conditions, watching a white wall fly at you is not the best thing to do.pleasant feeling. The anemometer did not reach, it was not up to it, but the flurry was more than 20 m / s, that's for sure. And then a downpour of such force that the headstay is not visible. Thankfully it didn't last long. Within half an hour the storm had passed. But the headwind of 10-12 m/s remained. Against the wind and current at "full throttle" we barely pull 3 knots. On the right bank, Koncha-Zaspa began. This is such a quiet, inconspicuous place where "servants of the people" live: http://www.pravda.co.../10/19/4250932/ Here are a few "modest village huts":
Moving at such a speed, we did not have time to reach the Kyiv Yacht Club before dark. Therefore, they hid for the night behind the last island in front of the South Bridge.
At about 15 o'clock we pass the mouth of the Desna. Vyshgorod is already visible ahead
As it turned out, along the entire embankment of Vyshgorod there is no place where one could moor to the shore. There is only one restaurant with a pier, but, alas, we were not allowed to go there. Moreover, we asked to drink beer from them - it did not help. Just a full meal. Well, okay. A little downstream there is a sandy beach, in front of which we anchored, and I just swam across to the shore. I bought it in a beer store, next to the market, an excellent shmat of salted lard. Life immediately improved :) By six o'clock in the evening, everyone who wanted to go to the race gathered at the entrance to the Kyiv Gate. It turned out to be the smallest of all the Dnieper locks. There are only ten eyelets in it, but, as it turned out, only three work on the right side, and none work on the left side! Here is the capital for you, we have never seen anything like this anywhere;) A tourist boat came in front of us and occupied two eyes. Only one eye remained free for five sailboats. And so we slink:
During the locking, the acquaintance of the regatta participants began. It is not far from the exit from the outport to the upper sailboat clubs. At 19-30 we moor in the sailboat club "Junior" - a comfortable, sheltered cove. Well equipped area, hospitable hosts. True, we did not have time to figure out where the border between the "Junior" and "Energetik". In my student years, I spent a lot of time here (I studied at Burevestnik then), but now I couldn’t find out anything - everything flows, everything changes. View of Vyshgorod and Kyiv from the upper pool:
In the sailboat club "Junior":
Then the description of the race begins, the tourist destination has been reached.