Part Three: Bulgaria - Turkey
The morning began with a tail northwest wind. We quickly ran about 20 m, then the wind died down. Good excuse for lunch. Abeam at that moment was Varna. In the photo "breakfast near Varna" and our galley. Talking with the Bulgarians the day before, we complained that we were traveling in the middle of summer, and the weather was like late autumn - we couldn’t get out of the impoundments. To which one replied: "Nothing, summer will come for you tomorrow - the weather always changes behind Cape Kaliakra." And so it happened. Again, almost calm, but this is a completely different calm. Here is the real summer heat. Bright sun and warmthsea. To celebrate, we threw off our costumes and instantly got burned :) Since we now have gasoline, we didn’t calm down. After dinner, they started the engine and ran on. In the evening the wind picked up a little and, without stopping the engine, we set the jib. At one in the morning, when I handed over the watch, the wind was 4-5 m / s, the wave was not more than half a meter. At the same time, we just like that, just in case, changed the staysail to a storm one. After that, I climbed into the cabin and snored the baby's sleep :)
Woke up on the alarm clock, but still not really awake. I open the hatch, get out into the cockpit at the same time pushing the earpiece from the player into my ear, I see Yurina's eyes widened. The next moment, the feeling of weightlessness and I jump around the cabin, like a beach ball. Only then I realized that we were "sausage" and finally woke up. I ask Yura: "When did this start, and why didn't you wake me up?" He says: "About two hours ago, I tried to wake you up, but you didn't hear, and it's impossible to throw the tiller and push it." (Well, and a couple of weeks ago I couldn’t even think that you can sleep in such ax conditions, and even so serenely.) I begin to look around what is happening. The wind seems to be not strong, the anemometer shows 4-5 m/s. We are moving downwind, GPS speed is 5.5 knots. Those. the true wind is no more than 7-8 m / s, and the wave is clearly two meters away. Where does she come from? In my view, there is a clear mismatch between wave and wind. Apparently a river habit, but what we have already encountered over the Odessa bank was not yet a real sea wave. Assolka has to be kept strictly astern to the wave. The slightest deviation - it just falls sideways and coamingdrink water. The wind and wave are almost fair, but there is a slight deviation from the course. By seven o'clock in the morning the coast began to be seen. If we continue to follow the wave, we will reach the shore 7-8 miles to the west of the target - Cape Igneada.
I expected that closer to the land, the wind and the wave would turn up along the coast, but just in case, we brought the floating anchor and a bunch of two ordinary ones into a state of "combat readiness". Fortune smiled upon us. Somewhere a mile to the coast (when I had already begun to look between the rocks for a beach, on which it is better to throw myself), the wave smoothly turned and carried us to the cape. Moreover, oddly enough, the waves near the shore became smaller, not larger - as I expected. The waves went in groups of 10-15 pieces under a meter high, then 2-3 under two. This picture was repeated regularly, giving us a corsloppy respite. Around 10 o'clock we go around Cape Igneada. Here, inside the bay, it is quiet and comfortable. Looking at the beautiful town, we head to the port.
During one of the "pauses" between the waves, Yura dared to pull out his camera and tried to film it. A few seconds - and he lies at the bottom of the cockpit
The fact that no one answers us on channel 16 does not surprise us anymore, and without much hesitation we go to where "customs" is indicated on the map. We twirled a little, the coast guard appeared. We studied our documents for a long time, could not understand why the words “Chunga-Changa” were not on the ship’s ticket, but on a separate certificate (by the way, this problem arose everywhere), then they asked about the purpose of our visit. Hearing that we want to open visas and transit logs, they just shook their heads - there is no customs in Ignead. Here's one for you. It is indicated in the directions and on the map, but in fact it is not. Although the buildingit's worth it. Apparently it used to be, but now it's closed. But that doesn't make it any easier for us. After all, it destroys our already skewed plans. On the way here we have already lost three days. This means that it is already necessary to refuse entry into the Sea of Marmara. Having issued a transit log here, we could go further along the coast of the World Cup, and, for the sake of interest, look into the Bosphorus only out of the corner of our eye. Alas, they explained to us that the nearest place where you can register is Istanbul, Atakoy Marina. We were allowed to stand near the pier, we have water, electricity and a toilet at our service. But we can’t go to the shore :( Closer toIn the evening a sailboat arrived flying the Canadian flag. A married couple is on board. They came from the Mediterranean, here they wanted to close the transit log and go to Bulgaria. You should have seen their reaction when they were told that in order to close the border they need to return to Istanbul, moreover, since the place at the pier is already occupied (by us), they can only anchor in the middle of the bay :( But they also had an advantage : visas and an inflatable dinghy, on which they went to dinner at a port restaurant.Well, we arranged a dinner of fatty local mussels, of which there are a great manyyours. Evening crept up imperceptibly.
Sunset over Igneada
In the morning, the chief of the coast guard brought us gasoline, a friendly farewell took place, and we set off in the direction of Istanbul. It is impossible to walk along the coast here - the area of military exercises and firing, so we make a big detour back to the sea. Suddenly my eyes fall on the instrument panel ... Eee ... Yesterday morning on a bumpy we forgot to turn off the running lights, when approaching the cape we turned on the echo sounder and didn’t turn it off either, but it is silent :( Then I frantically grab the tester, poke into the battery and I can’t believe my eyes - 0.5 V. Yes, an acid battery is unlikely to survive such a discharge., we have an engine with a generator. Let's recharge now. And if you don't want to, it's not a problem either. We'll just drive at night so that the running lights are on. I start the engine, I poke the probe, but there is no charge. Those. no 0V at all. But it's already complete... :(
In the topic “a little about assols”, we discussed the device of the instrument panel, I then spoke out that I see no reason to make permanently installed control devices on such a small boat - a portable tester is enough. Now I repent. There was a tester on board, and there were two electronic engineers, but none of us even once thought about it. It remains only to sprinkle the head with ashes. For two weeks we ruthlessly used electrical appliances, but we never checked the presence of the charging current :( At what point in time the generator died, nowYou won’t know, but if we saw it in time, we could spare the battery (turn on only the mast light, and even then when the ship approaches, don’t play music, don’t charge mobile phones). All previous nights, side, stern and mast lights were on. And so, today, when we approach the Bosphorus - the area with the most intensive shipping - we have nothing to identify ourselves with :( That Yura_Il: One small joy. We have a portable GPS with autonomous power supply. scheme. Now I was very happy about it. Now I think that whenI will have a big iron boat :), I will not install a large power-intensive GPS-ku. I'd rather have a portable one and, if necessary, I will connect it to the same autonomous (from the central power supply) laptop. We could enter the Bosphorus around eleven in the evening. But now, despite the tailwind of 2-3 m / s, we leave only the storm staysail and slowly drift, in such a way as to approach the strait no earlier than 6 o'clock in the morning :(
I've been on watch since three o'clock. Before the entrance to the Bosphorus about 8 miles. I'm trying to consider: "Where is it?" There is something similar to a passage both to the right and to the left, but the GPS stubbornly points to where there is nothing - a flat coast. Only at dawn, when there is about 1 mile left, I understand where the entrance is and why I could not see it before. At night, the picture in your head is built according to the height and brightness of the objects. The Asian coast is farther, but it is higher and the lights on it are brighter. And the Anadolu lighthouse was visible much earlier than the Turkeli lighthouse. And in general, Turkeli is not perceived as a beacon for a long time, because it imposesstaring at the higher and brighter lights of the Asian shore, while Anadolu shines against the sky. Well, now I will remember this picture for a long time. The first two photos: We are entering the Bosphorus. European coast. Lighthouse Turkeli. The third photo is the Asian coast. Lighthouse of Anadolu. The rest of the photos are random, we do not know the names
I don’t know how much the photographs convey what we saw with our eyes, but before the first bridge there was a feeling that we were in some kind of unreal fairy tale. After the bridge it passes. There is already CITY, beautiful, peculiar, but quite real.
View of the European part of Istanbul from the Bosphorus
Lighthouses at the exit to the marble sea
View from the Bosphorus to the Sea of Marmara (Princes' Islands)
View of the European side of Istanbul from the Sea of Marmara
View of the European side of Istanbul from the Sea of Marmara
The queue of ships for passage to the Bosphorus
Near the skyscraper, the final goal is Atakoy Marina
On the approach to the marina there is a large inscription: "Call on channel 73" Which we did. A small rib came up to us and escorted us to the parking lot. In the last photo - passes for turnstiles, for us, in fact - a visa at a cost of 57 euros